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Roberto Brass

Evergreen Emerald Trees

Growing Zones 3-8








Soil Type

Well Drained

Sunlight

Full, Partial

Drought Tolerance

Semi

Mature Height

10-15 Feet

Mature Width

3-4 Feet

Fall Color

Green



The Emerald Green Arborvitae is the most popular, medium size privacy screen tree. If you are looking for an evergreen hedge without the extreme height of the Thuja Green Giant or the Leyland Cypress, this gorgeous arborvitae is a perfect choice.

The Emerald Green Arborvitae is beautifully shaped with stunning, lush, green foliage that is beyond compare. Emerald Greens add value and beauty to any home, building, or property. Many customers utilize this tree as a low-maintenance living fence. However, because of its unique flowing and twisting foliage, the Emerald Green is prized as a single specimen as well. This isn't your average, boring Christmas tree evergreen. The shape is more cylindrical than pyramidal. The dense, feathery foliage swirls and twirls around this plant creating a lovely, natural layered, but clean look that is unparalleled.


This striking evergreen's lush and unique appearance makes it a standout. In fact, this arborvitae is our favorite evergreen for a manageable privacy screen. It's also great for single-specimen planting. These trees grow in zones 3 to 8 so it thrives in most of the United States.Order your with Brass Lawn Crae Today.


Where to Plant

Arborvitae need a spot in full sun, which is considered six or more hours of direct sunlight per day. In northern climates, Emerald Green arborvitae can take all-day sun; in hot climates, they can benefit from a little late afternoon shade, says Gast.

They also can be planted in a large container. But as the tree grows, it eventually will need to be transplanted into the ground after several years. Also, in very cold climates or during harsh winters, the root ball can freeze because it's not as insulated as it would be if it were planted in the ground. To protect the roots when an arb is planted in a container, keep it in a sheltered area, like up against a house, where it will receive radiant heat from the building.





How to Plant

  • Find a spot in full sun. Make sure to give the tree enough room to spread out. Don't plant it where it will grow into overhead utility lines, eaves, or other trees. Also, plant it at least one to two times its mature width (which will be three to four feet wide) away from your house.

  • Dig a hole that's about twice as wide and deep as the root ball, then lay the plant on its side and ease it out of its pot. For balled-and-burlapped plants, completely remove the burlap and wire or twine holding it together once it's been placed in the hole (no, burlap and twine will not biodegrade quickly enough and can affect your tree's growth).

  • If the tree roots are circling around the root ball, rough them up a bit with your gloved hand. This will help stimulate root growth.

  • Place the tree in the hole, and turn it several directions to see which angle looks best to you. This is strictly subjective, but you don't want any bare areas (which should eventually fill in) to the street side, for example.

  • Make sure the root flare, where the trunk flares slightly at ground level, is at or slightly above ground level. A common reason any tree dies months (or even years) down the road is that it was planted too deep.

  • Backfill the soil into the hole, placing soil all around the root ball so it won't lean. Don't add other soil amendments to the hole, which can cause drainage problems, called the bathtub effect. The plant needs to learn to grow in its native soil, not to keep its roots in the hole.

  • Tamp the soil down firmly to eliminate air pockets and make sure there's good root-to-soil contact.

  • Water well. Let the hose trickle onto the root ball until the area feels evenly moist.

For the first few months, it's important to water new trees regularly, especially if there is no rain, to help the plant get established. The area should stay moist, but not soaking wet. A soaker hose is a great idea because it delivers water directly to the root ball.

A two to three inch layer of mulch also will help keep the root ball moist. But don't let it touch the trunk, which invites pest and disease.

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How to Care Emeralds

Like all arbs, Emerald Greens are extremely hands-off once established.

Light

Arborvitae are full-sun plants that need six hours or more a day. All-day sun is okay unless you live in a very hot place, in which case a little shade in the afternoon can help.

Soil

Arbs tolerate pH levels from slightly acidic to neutral, says Gast. They prefer well-draining soils and adapt to many soil types. However, they don't like heavy clay soil, which does not drain well. If you have clay soil, amend the entire planting area (not just the hole) by mixing in compost to improve drainage. Otherwise, trees that stay too soggy may suffer root rot and die.

Water

Once your tree is established, you can water as needed during dry spells, especially during the first two years.

Temperature and Humidity

Arbs prefer average summer temperatures (60s to 80s) and don't mind a little shade in the hottest part of the day in warmer climates. They can withstand very cold winter temperatures. They don't love high humidity, though, so make sure to provide plenty of space between trees to provide good air circulation, which will can help lessen the risk of disease.

Fertilizer

If you like, feed your trees with a general-purpose or evergreen fertilizer according to package instructions, says Gast.



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